A fully detailed build of an INTERCEPTOR 400 Helicopter 
complete with the Alien Command (Standard)
Auto pilot system

Page 4

CHOPPERADDICT SPECIALISES IN THE BUILDING, REPAIRING & 
SETTING UP OF R/C HELICOPTERS AND RADIOS

   

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Making and fitting the mixer assembly

This is the last bit we need to assemble before we can move on to putting them all together to make the mainshaft and rotor head assembly.

The main parts for the mixer assembly are shown on the left. 

You need to be very careful when assembling this as it is very easy to get parts the wrong way around.

In particular, check and recheck the fly bar holder, as if you get it back to front, you will not be able to set the pitch up correctly for the helicopter at all.

The first thing to do is to insert the fly bar holder into the main mast top casing the correct way around, and to fit it there. The parts required for this task are shown below.

Pick up your previously partially assembled rotor head, lay it on the bench, and carefully insert the flybar holder through the large hole in the main mast top casing as shown below.  You will need to rotate it around to get it through the hole.

Once the fly bar holder is sitting inside the head casing, make sure that it is aligned as shown in the picture below. In particular, note the blade holder ball is BEHIND the blade holder with the rotor head rotating clockwise, and the cut away on the near end and the arm fitting stub that projects outward on the other end of the flybar holder.  THIS MUST BE ASSEMBLED THIS WAY AROUND.

What you should end up with when the washout arms are fitted is that the SHORTER END of each washout lever connects to the ball on the Blade holder.  If you get this the other way around it will still appear to fit, but will be VERY WRONG.....

Take the brass top hat washer and push it through the hole in the main mast casing from the OUTSIDE as shown below. insert the screw through the top hat washer and screw into the hole in the fly bar holder. DO NOT TIGHTEN TOO MUCH JUST YET.

Now repeat this process with the other side, and finally, tighten both screws down as firmly as you can, but make sure that they do NOT make the fly bar hold bind at all.

Now we will fit the connecting balls to the mixer arms themselves.

Note the direction the balls are fitted...

As in all previous cases, ensure that the balls can turn on their fitting screws, and then fit them so that the balls are able to rotate freely by themselves.

Fit the balls to both mixer arms.

On the right are the bearings and spacers used to fit each mixer arm to the fly bar holder.

You need to press one bearing into the mixer arm from one side, then turn the arm over, drop the spacer in place on the inside of that bearing, and press the second bearing in on top of the spacer.  The bearing will usually press in quite easily with your fingers.

Don't forget this spacer - it is important to ensure the arms can move freely.
The next thing to do is to push the bolt through the bearings and spacer from the OUTSIDE of the mixer arm.  This is ALWAYS THE OPPOSITE SIDE FROM THE CONNECTING BALLS.

Above is the completed mixer arms assembly.  
NB - please check that yours looks exactly like this, with the long and short ends of each of the mixer arms in the same direction as shown here. (confirm by the the shape of the cut outs in the fly bar holder)

Now we need to add the flybar rocker, which is a simple task.  First of all, fit connecting balls to either side, making sure that the balls can rotate freely once tightened down.  Use a hex driver or allen key to fit the grub screws in the holes proved, but DO NOT TIGHTEN THEM DOWN AT ALL.

Once the above is done, slide the rocker frame up over the mixer arms with the GRUB SCREWS FACING UPWARDS for easier access later, and locate it on each end of the fly bar holder.  Take the fly bar and push it through the fly bar rocker arm and then all the way through the flybar holder and out through the other side of the rocker frame as shown in the picture below - right.

Use a ruler, or Vernier calipers if you have some, and carefully adjust the length of fly bar that protrudes at each end until they are both exactly the same length.  Then add some thread lock to the grub screws and tighten down fully.  BE CAREFUL NOT TO STRIP THE THREADS OR GRUB SCREW HEAD.
                 

The flybar rocker arm

The completed head
The last thing to do now is to add the flybar paddles. A little unusually, these are NOT threaded, so all you need to do is to push one of them all the way onto the flybar, and lightly pinch the grub screw to hold it in position. Now do the same with the other one.  Each blade must point in the correct direction, which is with the thicker edge facing forward in a clockwise direction, as this helicopter rotates it's rotor blades in that direction.

Align each fly bar paddle so that it is exactly parallel to the fly bar rocker, with each pointing in the opposite direction to the other, as shown below. Check to make sure that each blade is exactly the same distance away from the edge of the fly bar rocker, and if not adjust the shorter one outwards until it is exactly the same distance away from the rocker arm as the longer one. Add thread lock and fully tighten the grub screws on the paddles onto the fly bar, keeping the paddles exactly parallel to the rocker arm.

WARNING - BECAUSE THERE IS NO THREAD IN THE PADDLES (or fly bar ends), 
THEY COULD FLY OFF UNLESS THEY ARE FIXED REALLY SECURELY

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