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A point to note is that there are other guides available for
building this kit, one of the best I have found is by Anti_A, and
this shows in pictures every step of the build, so I would recommend
that you also download this PDF and use it alongside this guide.
My task here will in some cases be repetitive, but I also want
to try to point out the pitfalls that you can easily fall into when assembling
this kit. Some are really very easy to get caught by.
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| Ok, the top picture is all the
parts required to complete the main rotor blade grips and
fit them to the rotor head casing shown in the centre. NB -
you are going to need one or preferable two 5.5 mm box
spanners or nut runners to be able to tighten the nylock
nuts on the outside of each end of the feathering shaft.
The lower picture shows the parts in more
detail and in the correct order for just ONE side of the blade holder
assembly.
The best way to build this is to first of
all put one of the nylock nuts onto one end of the
feathering shaft, and to tighten it down just far enough so
that the threads ONLY JUST come out of the top of the nylock
nut.
Next, place one bearing on the feathering
shaft, followed by the aluminium spacer and then the second
bearing. Now carefully insert the feathering shaft
into the OUTER end of one of the blade grips, and slide it
in as far as it will go.
You need to take care that you identify
the two spacers correctly. One is aluminium, and it is
that spacer that goes BETWEEN the two main bearings into the
OUTER side of the blade grip, as shown in the picture
above. The other spacer is a a plastic material, and
that goes onto the feathering shaft immediately before you
slide it through the main head post, as shown below.
Now get hold of the
four rubber rings (called "O" rings or
damper rings), and push TWO into the hole in the
main mast top casing where the feathering shaft will
go through it. Repeat this with TWO
rubber rings in the other side of the main mast top
casing.
 |
The main top
head casing will now look exactly as shown
on the left, with two rubber O ring dampers
on each side. |
| The final move
is to carefully insert the feathering shaft
complete with it's rotor blade holder, and
the plastic spacer, into one side of the
main head casing, and pushing it all the way
through as far as it will go. You will
need to use a 5.5 mm box spanner, or even a
5mm box spanner to push the feathering shaft
through the rubber "O" rings.
If, as is quite possible,
the rubber rings push out on the other side,
just slide them back down the feathering
shaft and carefully push them back into the
recess in the main head casing.
Make sure you do not cut
them as you push them into the head casing. |
 |
Assembling the other
side is almost identical, except that you are going
to be working the other way around, starting off by
pushing the remaining plastic spacer over the open
end of the the feathering shaft, followed by the
second rotor blade grip.
The almost last thing to
do now is to drop one of the bearings over
the feathering shaft, followed by the
remaining aluminium spacer, and then the
last bearing. |
Again, use the 5.5 mm box
spanner to keep the feathering shaft from
pushing out of the other side as you push
the bearings & spacer in, as shown
above. |
|
Now using
both 5.5mm box spanners or nut runners,
slowly tighten the nylock nuts down, trying
to ensure that both nuts have about the same
amount of thread protruding through the top
of the nuts.
Keep checking the tightness
of the blade holder on the feathering
shaft. ONLY TIGHTEN them down far
enough that the blade grips are not being
pinched at all. The blade holders MUST
BE TOTALLY FREE TO ROTATE, but there should
be no end play once the retaining screws
shown in the next step are fitted and
tightened down firmly |
 |
The last
task in this section, but one that is easily
forgotten, is to ensure that the
outer bearings cannot slide out of the blade
holder casing by pinning them in place with
the four small screws provided, two in each
side. |
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