A fully detailed build of an INTERCEPTOR 400 Helicopter 
complete with the Alien Command (Standard)
Auto pilot system

Page 17

   

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Fitting the connecting rods from the servos

This next step is also quite straightforward, but be careful that you put the links in the SAME HOLES on the servo arms of all servo horns that control the swash plate.

You need to push the bent end of the linkages through the relevant hole in the servo arms. You may find that you need to open these holes up slightly to get it through, but do not make them any larger than absolutely necessary or this will introduce unwanted "play" into the linkage system.

For those building the helicopter for learning to hover and fly, I strongly recommend that you use the THIRD HOLE OUT FROM THE CENTRE of the servo arms, apart from the pitch rod shown below, which can use outer or next one in quite safely, as this reduces the amount of movement the swash plate has, and makes the helicopter a lot smoother and more gentle for those using it to learn to fly with.

On the right is the pitch servo linkage fitted correctly.  Note that the rod goes through the servo arm from the INSIDE outwards to ensure the linkage is as perpendicular as possible.
And now the aileron servo that sits between the pitch control arms. This has two rods, one on each end of a double ended arm. Again, use the THIRD HOLE OUT from the centre for learners.

Note the rods go through the servo horn from the OUTSIDE this time.

Once connected to the balls on the bell cranks, the swash plate should be exactly level across the helicopter when the servo arm is at right angles across the servo as in the picture.

If not, adjust the lengths of both rods slightly until the swash is exactly level.  Make sure that neither rod is connected more tightly than the other due to being too long or too short compared to the other rod.

Here is the correct result looking from the back of the helicopter.
Now use the longest rod we have to connect the elevator servo to the elevator control arm on the right hand side of the helicopter.

Again, adjust the length of this arm so that the control arm is exactly vertical, and then, if you made the two rods that connect the elevator control arm to the swash plate the same lengths, the swash plate should now be level in all directions.

  
Let me just clarify what all this talk of vertical, parallel and perpendicular is all about.

With Helicopters, it is crucial that the working angles between the various control items are matched and correct at all times.  The only way to do this is to start with the servo horns, which should be positioned exactly perpendicular to the servo itself when the throttle and pitch are both at 50%.

This can be adjusted if needed by moving the servo horns slightly to a different spline, or even reversing them if using a double ended horn, as the splines are intentionally off centre. If you have a computer radio, you can use sub trims to do this even more accurately.

Once the servo horns are correct, you then adjust the rods to get any bell cranks or other intermediate levers correctly positioned, again vertical or perpendicular to the aircrafts centre lines.

The final part of this is to then adjust the connecting rods that go directly up to the swash plate, and get that exactly level in all directions.

Here is how your helicopter should be looking now...

            

The last connections are to tail servo.  This mounts on the outside of the left side off the frame, BUT the servo horn is positioned on the INSIDE of the frame.

The spline is on the REAR end of the servo in this case.

Fit the horn to the servo splines pointing upwards, but before doing so, you need to cut at least or two holes worth of the servo arm away to stop it  fouling at the top.

Note the direction the connecting rod goes through the servo horn.

You need to remove the connecting eye on the control rod if it is already fitted, and then slide the control rod down through the support from the front.

You need to connect the rod through the 3rd hole out from the centre, so it is easiest to remove the servo horn from the servo to let you do this, and then refit it once the rod is through the servo horn correctly.

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