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Fitting the servos to the frame
This next step is quite straightforward, but be
careful that you put the servos in the right way around, as the
shaft is not in the centre of the servos.
 |
Here are all the electronics
that come with the Interceptor 400 Combo kit.
They include 4 off Acer Lab 8G servos, 1
off Acer Lab 40A ESC (Electronic Speed Controller), 1 off
3100KV motor, and an Acer Labs G1000 Gyro unit. |
| This is the Acer Labs 3100KV
electric motor that will provide the power for your
helicopter. It comes without a pinion on it to let you
choose the best ratio. The best ratio for beginners is to
use the 12 tooth pinion, which is one of the 2 pinions
provided with the kit.
To fit this, slide it onto the shaft of
the motor in the direction shown and pinch the grub screw so
that holds it in position. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN IT JUST
YET. |
 |
 |
This is a very important part
of any electric powered helicopter, the ESC or Electronic
Speed Controller.
It's task is to not only provide the right
amount of power for the motor, but also to power the Radio
RX and the servos. This one can provide up to 40 Amps of
current for short durations, which is more than you will
ever need. |
| The picture on the right shows
the Acer Labs 40A Esc fitted to the left side of the main
frame with sticky pads.
You also mount it in other places, my
preferred position is directly underneath the main shaft,
going across the helicopter form left to right.
When fitting these items, you need to
always think about the COG (Centre of Gravity), which must
be directly at the mainshaft, so you need to mount the
electronics to allow for this.. |
 |
 |
On the left is one of the Acer
Labs 8G servos. It is supplied with the plastic nuts shown
on the right, but the screws provided are slightly oversize
and so fit the holes without needing these nuts. |
| The first servo we are going to
fit goes on the LEFT hand side of the main frame, and is
used to control the pitch of the rotor blades. Note
that it is fitted into the hole from the outside, and that
the splined hub is at the right hand (rear) end of the
servo.
Tighten the screws in all the way, but
make sure it tightens down evenly, or you could break one of
the mounting tabs on the servo. |
 |
 |
The next servo is the Elevator
servo. This is fitted in the LOWER of the two servo slots
provided on the RIGHT side of the main frame, as shown
on the left.
Again, note the position of the splined
hub, at the right hand (forward) end of the servo |
| And on to the last of the tree
swash plate servos, for controlling the ailerons.
This is fitted on top of the plastic frame
that we fitted between the two pitch control arms
previously.
Make sure that you are screwing the servo
down onto the flats provided on only one side of the plastic
mounting.
Note the direction again, the splined hub
is at the rear of the servo. |
|
 |
Ok, that's the servos done,
let's now mount the motor shall we ?
The motor will slide in from the
underneath quite easily, but do make sure that you route the
wires correctly as shown on the left.
The bolts to hold the motor can be reached
with a long hex wrench from above. I prefer to get the
bolt in the single hole FIRST, but just pinch it lightly,
and then get the bolt in that lets you adjust the motor's
position afterwards, but leave it just pinched up.
Now slide the motor in the adjuster slot
until the pinion and main gear are meshing correctly.
This means that there should be a very small amount of
"play", just abut enough to allow a standard piece
of paper to be wound through between them without the paper
being cut by the teeth.
Clamp both mounting bolts up tightly. |
| This shows the correct meshing
quite well...
If the vertical position of the pinion is
OK, you also need to Thread lock and tighten the pinion grub
screw in place as tightly as you can.
|
|
 |
Now we need to start wiring
thing together, and the first candidates are the motor and
the ESC as shown on the left.
The ESC is mounted on some good quality
double sided sticky pads, but sometimes, it is also
necessary to use a thin tie wrap to ensure the ESC cannot
come free in flight.
If you use a tie wrap, DO NOT PULL IT TOO
TIGHT, It is just there as a second line of defence if the
sticky pads release the ESC, and tightening it to much can
damage the ESC itself. |
| Now connect the three wires
from the motor to those from the ESC. You can connect them
in any order at first. When we get to start the motor
we can switch them around if the head rotates the wrong
way...
ALWAYS ensure that you use tie wraps to
hold any wires neatly in position and to make sure they
cannot possibly get caught in the way of any servos, gears
etc.
DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THESE TIE WRAPS, just
enough to keep the wires in place is fine. |
 |
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