This makes no real difference to the new head, and it will work exactly the same on a standard frame. The only difference is that I have Anti-rotation bracket at the front rather than the back to achieve the full RDTS.

The first thing to realise is that the main rotor blade holders have to be turned around through 180 degrees so that they can  now controlled from the LEADING edge, which is necessary to have the swash still work the same way, in other words going up will increase the collective pitch, and vice versa.  I guess that if you have a programmable radio, you could leave it the original way with trailing control arms, as you could simply reverse the pitch settings in the Swash Mix area of the radio.

Most of the work involved in this project is REMOVING LOADS OF UNWANTED PARTS.

I just pulled the head off the main shaft, disconnected the swash plate and put it to one side, and then removed the entire flybar system, flybar control arms, flybar holder etc, leaving the top of the main head moulding very empty as shown in the picture above.

Next you put the swash plate back on, and connect the two anti rotation drop arms from the washout levers to it in the normal way.  The other end of the washout arms is no longer used, so I decided to cut them both off entirely just the other side of the mounting screws.

Now I refitted the main shaft and put it all into the old Belt CP frame. I then connected the servos to the swash plate in the normal way,

The most "difficult" part came next.  the hub that the washout arms ride on is designed to slide and up down on the two locating pins that come down from the main head moulding. With a flybarless head, you DO NOT WANT IT TO DO THIS AT ALL, it must locked in a fixed position on the main shaft.

That is where the word "difficult" come in. You need to adjust it up and down the main shaft on the locating pins until you find the best position that gives you the right pitch range on the main blades.

To do this, I fitted the main blades, disconnected the motor for safety, and then, because I was using the stock Esky 6 channel radio, I switch it into idle up and placed the throttle stick at 50%.  This means that I knew the pitch curve was also at 50% (because that is what the Esky radios give you in their fixed curves)

Now it was simply a matter of getting the pitch on the blades to be ZERO, and ALSO GIVING THE CORRECT AMOUNT OF POSITIVE AND NEGATIVE PITCH. You do this by (1) changing the position of the washout levers hub, and (2) adjusting the length of all three servo connecting rods to raise or lower the swash plate.

After a bit of fiddling with both of these, I got them both correctly positioned, and then marked the main shaft immediately above the hub so that I know where to position it after applying the stud lock.

The picture above shows the best way to sort this position out. This was taken with the throttle FULLY UP in NORMAL MODE. You can see quite clearly that the remains of the 2 washout levers are parallel  at this throttle setting.  If you fix the sliding hub to the main shaft in the position shown, the rest is just a question of adjusting the height of the swash plate to get those arms horizontal. After that you can adjust it as required to give you the pitch range you want.

Once that was done, I rechecked everything to ensure I still had zero pitch at mid throttle. Then I turned Idle up off and checked the pitch range I had available.  To my great surprise I had from -8 to +12 degrees in NORMAL MODE, far more than is normally possible with a standard head.